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Dracaena Care

Here are the main care requirements for growing a dracaena:

• Select a location in bright, indirect light indoors or dappled sun outdoors.
• Plant it in well-draining, slightly acidic potting mix or garden soil.
• Water it regularly in spring and summer and reduce watering in winter.
• Increase humidity levels for houseplants in the winter if needed.
• Fertilize monthly with a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer.
• Prune in the spring or summer to control the plant's growth if needed.

Planting

In USDA Zones 10-11, you can plant dracaena in the landscape. The plants will grow much larger than houseplants so make sure the species of your choice fits the location as it grows into a mature plant, often a sizeable tree.

Select a location with partial shade, ideally dappled sun cast by other plantings. If the plant receives direct sun, morning sun is preferable to the hot and harsh afternoon sun. The soil in the planting location needs to be well-draining and slightly acidic, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5.

Light

Place dracaena in a spot with bright indirect light. While the plant tolerates short periods of direct sunlight, long exposures will cause leaf scorch. Indoors, it also tolerates low-light conditions although it will grow better with more exposure to indirect light.

Outdoors, it needs a location in partial shade or dappled sun.

Soil

For potted plants, use any peat-based commercial potting mix, which has the slight acidity that these plants prefer.

If grown in the landscape in tropical regions, the soil should be rich and well-drained.

Water

Keep the plants consistently moist during their growing season (spring through fall), but allow them to go drier in the dormant winter period. Water them thoroughly each week during the active growing season, letting excess water drain through the pot into a tray or basin beneath. In winter, water moderately every two weeks.

Temperature and Humidity

Most dracaena species thrive at temperatures of 70 to 80 degrees F but will react badly if temperatures drop below 50 degrees F. These tropical plants like a fairly high humidity level, which is often a problem for indoor plants during the dry winter months. Mist or use a room humidifier if the air in your home is dry.

Fertilizer

During spring and summer, give dracaena houseplants a monthly feeding with a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for houseplants. Do not fertilize in fall and winter when plant growth slows down.

Types of Dracaena

Out of the 100-plus species in the Dracaena genus, a relatively small number are commonly sold as houseplants. Popular varieties include:

• Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) has strap-like leaves that emerge in a fountain-like cluster from a thick woody stem. This plant grows up to 6 feet in height as a potted plant. In outdoor settings where it is hardy (zones 10 to 12), it has been known to grow over 20 feet.
• Drago (Dracaena draco) is a slow-growing dracaena. Its sword-like green foliage might not be as striking as that of other dracaena but its toughness as a houseplant is unmatched.
• Dracaena deremensis is a synonym for dracaena in the Deremensis Group, a subgroup of D. fragrans with many excellent cultivars, including the ‘Janet Craig’ and ‘Lemon Lime’.
• Dragon tree (Dracaena marginata) has thinner, grass-like leaves that fountain off of multiple thick stems.
• Lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), also known as the ribbon dracaena, is often trained to have curled stems by careful manipulation of the direction of sunlight. This is a familiar novelty plant that may be kept only a few inches tall, or grown to several feet in height. 'Variegata' is a variety with striking yellow and green foliage.
  
• Florida Beauty is aDracaena surculosacultivar with slender, upright, bamboo-like branches and lance-shaped dark green leaves densely peppered with striking spots of variegation.
• Song of India (Dracaena reflexa) has alternating dark green and chartreuse stripes on narrow, lanceolate leaves with veining.

Pruning

Although pruning is not essential, dracaena plants tolerate cutting back when necessary to control their shape or height. Pruning is best done during the active growing periods of spring and summer. Yellowing or dead leaves should be removed as they appear.

Propagating Dracaena

Dracaenas are usually quite easy to propagate by rooting stem cuttings, which is best done in spring as the plant is beginning to actively grow. Even just a bare section of the stem will often produce a new plant.

Here's how to propagate a new dracaena:

1. Using sterilized sharp pruners, cut an 8-inch length of the stem, then remove the leaves. (It's possible to simply "behead" the top of the plant, and use this section to start a new plant.)
2. Dip the bottom end of the stem in rooting hormone powder, then plant the stem into a small pot filled with moistened potting mix.
3. Place the planted cutting in a spot with bright indirect light and keep moist until leaves begin to sprout from exposed nodes; this may take as much as three weeks.
4. Repot the new plant when it fills its starter container.

It's also possible to suspend a cutting in a container of water, let it develop a good network of roots, then plant it in potting mix.

How to Grow Dracaena From Seed

Because indoor dracaena plants rarely flower and produce fruit, it's not common to propagate them from seeds.

Potting and Repotting Dracaena

Dracaena plants will do well in any commercial peat-based potting mix in a large pot with good drainage. It's good practice to place a saucer or tray beneath the pot, which allows you to fully drench the plant with each watering. Replace the top 2 to 3 inches of potting mix yearly with fresh mix to replenish nutrients.

Repot into a slightly larger container when the plant starts to visibly outgrow its pot or when roots start to emerge through the drainage holes.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Dracaena is susceptible to some of the same pests that affect many houseplants, especially thrips and mealybugs. The plant also attracts aphids and spider mites.

Fungal leaf spot disease is sometimes be a problem if the soil is overly moist.

Common Problems With Dracaena

Problems with a dracaena plant often manifest themselves through the leaves.

Browning Leaves

Dracaena is sensitive to fluorides and built-up salts, which can cause leaves to turn brown. If you notice this, try watering with non-fluoridated water, with an especially deep watering once each month to flush out salts. Browning leaves can also occur if indoor humidity levels are too low; mist the plant regularly or use a room humidifier to rectify this.

Scorched Leaves

Too much direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of your plant. Move the plant to a spot where is it less exposed to direct sunlight. If the only available location is a windowsill, use a sheer curtain to filter the light.

Yellowed Leaves

When the leaves of a dracaena turn yellow, the likely culprit is overwatering. Cut down on the amount of water you give your plant. If the soil is compacted and drains poorly, repot the plant with fresh potting soil.

Wilted Leaves

Droopy, wilted leaves aren’t necessarily a sign that your plant needs water. While wilting is often a telltale sign that the plant is lacking moisture, there are other possible causes, such as sudden changes in temperature, improper lighting, lack of humidity, or fungal disease.